I like to think that I know something about fashion and design, and I would also like to think that in my previous life, I was some sort of inspirational or provocative stylist, or even haute couture owner. After seeing some of Katherine Soucie’s new collection for Sans Soucie, I experienced the realization that fashion can go beyond a mere idea or a style. The company has created an art form out of textile design, thereby transcending the purpose, or meaning, of fashion.

MM: What is the process of making a dress or shirt out of hosiery?
KS: In order to produce our garments, we must go through a very detail-oriented and time-consuming textile process. We start with un-dyed waste hosiery, which we then color using non-metal, eco-friendly dyes. Once the fabric has been hung to dry, we then cut open the hosiery so that it lies flat for the beginning of our printing process, a crucial step that helps to coat the fine material and change the structure of the cloth; the material is therefore protected against runs and pills. Once printed, the material is again hung to dry before it is heat-set. We then start to section the strips into yardage before the material starts becoming a new fabric. Once a yardage has been created, we are then able to start constructing a garment. We never know what materials we are getting from the hosiery manufacturers, and this constantly challenges what we can and cannot do with the material. Some might interpret this as limiting, but I personally think it inspires me to be more creative.

MM: Where do the majority of your fabrics and hosiery come from?
KS: The bulk of my materials come from two hosiery manufacturers in Montreal. All the materials that haven't met quality-control standards or that feature imperfections during the manufacturing of the hosiery are typically thrown out.

MM: You recently debuted at FAT (Toronto Alternative Fashion Week) to great reviews. How was that experience?
KS: This was a great avenue for me to showcase my work, as the event represents everything that I believe in, both as an artist and as a designer. I had the opportunity to study fashion, textiles and visual arts, and you learn that all forms of art and design relate to one another. When an event such as FAT comes to incorporate all of the arts into one setting, the result creates more interest not just for the designer who participates, but also for the audience as well. Let's face it: Runway shows can get pretty boring rather quickly at times, so when you have the opportunity to showcase your work in a manner that is less contrived, it is way more exciting!

MM: Who are some of your fashion influences?
KS: I have always admired Elsa Schiaparelli, Mariano Fortuny, Sonia Delaunay, and the artists who collaborated with them. I am all about the collaboration of the arts and design. My other biggest influences come from music, architecture, and art movements from the twentieth century, such as Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Dadaism, Bauhaus, Surrealism, Abstract, and Expressionism. As far as contemporary designers are concerned, I have always been a fan of Comme Des Garçons, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Issey Miyake.

MM: Given the opportunity, who would you like to work with?
KS: I am hoping to collaborate with UK designer Julian Roberts. He is responsible for developing a unique garment-cutting technique known as substractive cutting, which is a process that has come to inspire my latest work under my Sans Soucie label. I also have in the works a collaboration with Vancouver handbag and accessory designer Denise Wilson of Bronsino Designs.

MM: What differentiates you from other designers?
KS: Good question! I luckily have chosen a path on which I studied both fashion and textiles, enabling me to produce what I need from raw fibre if necessary. I have the knowledge and skills to produce most anything, and this provides me with the tools to be a designer.

MM: There are a lot of trends happening in the fashion industry. Do you believe in trends, and are they simply a part of fashion?
KS: No, I am not a fan of trends. True fashion comes from the individual and not from an outside source telling someone what his or her personality should be. This concept of keeping up with the Joneses is something that is manufactured by the industry. You know, I love clothes like any other fashionista out there, but sooner or later the well does run dry, and then what will you do?